How To Diminish Saturation and Increase the sharpness for your Flower Photos

Taking beautiful flower photos is one of the most stunning factors to photography. Not only are flowers abundant, but they are the incarnation of splendor. It’s effortless to shoot a striking flower photo, although once in a while we come across a problem.

In order to photograph beautiful flower photos we first must be able to retain a goal in mind. This means we must know how we want the final image to look. A cool way to do that is to retain a checklist.

On your checklist ought to be techniques that facilitate to create fantastically clear flower pictures. At the top of your list should be what light to shoot in. (More about this in a minute). Also, it is a good idea to have a sturdy tripod so your digital camera is kept as motionless as possible. The tripod allows for sharp photos. Lastly, take photos using RAW instead of Jpeg. When you take photos using RAW you get the finest quality in your shooting and the picture will remain in good quality for a lot of years.

Photography is all about lighting, and since your flowers are in gardens, you need to observe the lighting vigilantly. If you photograph in bright sun you can possibly overexpose the shot. On the other hand you can have too much shadow areas within your photo. Both of these things can utterly ruin your flower photo.

Every now and then we shoot a flower that is sitting right in intense sunlight. We might not possess control over the light or the flowers location. (Shooting in the botanical gardens is an example.) If your flower is a cream colour, pale yellow or soft pink, then too much bright light can overexpose several or every one of of the flowers petals. When we have too much brightness on our flowers, the flower loses finer details as a result of this saturation.

What can be done about this? Go into Lightroom. Lightroom is owned by Adobe who also created Photoshop. Lightroom is an alternative photo editing program. I find it the best photo editing program I have ever used. You can try  it free for thirty days at Adobes site.

Lightroom has a panel made of controls. These controls are in the shape of sliders you can move from left to right. Each of these sliders controls different aspects of light. The “Highlights” slider raises or lessens the amount of stark, bright light in your photo. “Exposure” controls how much brightness and darkness the photo has (literally controls the exposure of the photograph). “Whites” is a control that adjusts how bright your white areas appear in the photo.

In the case of an flower that has too much exposure, we want to examine these three sliders. If you want to lessen any of these aspects of the photo all you have to do is move the slider to the left. The flower photo will look less stark and have a lesser amount of harsh, bright light within it.

How about increase in the sharpening in your flower photo? Lightroom has a small panel called “Detail”. Once you open this small panel you will then see 4 controls that manipulate sharpening of the photo:

1.    Amount
2.    Radius
3.    Detail
4.    Masking

All these four sliders influence how tack sharp your flower photo is. The ideal way is to move the sliders to the right hand side until you see the picture has sharpened to an satisfactory amount.  “Amount” means how much sharpening you increase as a result of changing the slider. “Radius” relates to how big the region of sharpening is. “Detail” refers to how much detail you want the sharpening to have. “Masking” just removes sharpening over the regions that doesn’t really need as much sharpening. Areas of deep black and deep blue would be an example.

Would you be interested to see how I have done this myself in Lightroom? Now you can I have done a video that you can observe at Digital Photography Secrets that shows how to complete this process from start to finish.

In order to take begin photographing take beautiful flower photos it is better to use gentle light (from an overcast day), and make use of a sturdy tripod to position the camera still. Even if you operate the auto setting on your digital camera, it doesn’t matter too much. The significant thing is that good quality lighting will give you the greatest results.

By digitalphotography Posted in Uncategorized

How To Get Beautiful Black and White Portraits Using Lightroom 4

How To Get Beautiful Black and White Portraits Using Lightroom 4 Continue reading

How To Improve Your Black And White Portrait Photography Through The Magic Of Lightroom

I adore black and white portrait pictures and I was lucky to produce some  recently. I was photographing a buddy and the only way I could capture her was candidly. It appears unusual to say this since she required the image done for her mother, but felt it uncomfortable to have done. So I really tried hard to make the complete process as casual and relaxed as I knew how. She was dreadfully shy of the camera. To make matters worse she was very embarrassed about her skin. At the time of photographing she was experiencing some acne difficulties and didn’t want them to be so noticeable.

I knew that she felt more calm about the shoot with her cat purring comfortably in her lap so I suggested  for her to hold the cat close. I am glad I did, as I was able to take a couple of  seconds more to compose and capture the shot.

Sadly in colour, you can observe some of the facial problems. I opted to turn the shot into a black and white portrait photo. I didn’t like the chair in the surroundings so I  cropped the image then changed it into a black and white photo.

Once I opened up the photo in Lightroom I recognized I wanted to improve the brightness and do a few other things to it before I would feel happy. I turned the contrast up a little to bring out the darker areas. Then, with the magic of photo editing, I  smoothed out her skin tone. I kept the black and white as the final image.

Once I show you how, you can tone down the skin acne as greatly or as little as you fancy to. I wanted to try reducing them down almost entirely. Some people need a lot of reducing down and others do not.

By changing the photo to black and white and adjusting the tone of her skin, her skin looks brighter and healthy. She looks more radiant in the image. In colour, I  may have had to do many additional things just to even out the skin tone. In black and white it has made my job easier. Generating a superb image of a beautiful girl has not only increased her self-confidence but mine too.

What are we looking for in a monochrome photo?

What makes up a “beautiful” black and white photo is not only composition and lighting but as many types of variances of grey tone as achievable.  We want sharp, crisp  whites, and deep, dark black, beside with many variances of grey as possible. We don’t simply want the same grey along with black and white. We want a variety within the tonal range itself.

Digital photography can make black and white photography look quite uninteresting,  which I will explain soon, but if you create deep greys, crisp whites and deep blacks then you are on your way to creating fantastic black and white photos.



Then, I got a little more creative and did one in sepia:



Do not copy these photos off this website. it’s bad karma and the law will get you, so don’t do it. Let’s keep things nice, ok?

How To Take Sharp, Clear Photos Of The Moon With Your SLR

Photo by Amy Renfrey

Canon 5D mk II, 30 seconds, F20, ISO 800.

Do not rip this photo off my website for any reason. If you want to use it, you must ask for written permission and authorisation first. If I find out you’ve used it without permission, you’re in trouble.

By Amy Renfrey

How To Do Photography

I wrote about this a couple of years again and it’s now time to do it again. I thought I would write about the specifics of getting the sharp craters in your photography, and also creating arty shots of moon scenes as well. I took this photo above using F20 and 30 seconds. I would usually use a shorter shutter speed, but as you will find out soon, I wanted a whole scene, rather than a close up of the moon itself. it’s a little grainy, but I don’t care because I like it this way. I encourage you to think artistically about your photography, and photographing our moon is no exception. I’ll mainly focus on clear moon shots with craters in this article.

So lets get started.  For a big moon with craters, first, you need a cloudless sky. A lovely, cloudless evening has the idyllic conditions to take moon photography. On the other hand you can look for a soft cloud streaking in front of} the surface of the moon. This also makes for magnificent photography. So let’s look closer at exactly what you will need.

Your focal length. If you want to photograph the moon as close as you can, then you need a very long lens. The best way to get close is by shooting with  a telescope. You can slot your camera on a mount and then the telescope successfully becomes your lens. It replaces the lens and you can get closer images pretty simply.

If you don’t own a telescope then you can use a long telephoto. A fast telephoto  lens is a lens that is very long. It is used for animals photography and portrait photography. A good range might be something like 200mm to 400mm. These telephoto lenses are very costly but yield the best photos. A fast telephoto lens is a lens that has F2.8 or F1.4 as it’s maximum aperture. It means you can get more light and have a faster shutter. You won;t have to rely on ISO as much, which is great, especially if your camera gets grainy when you use a high ISO.

The moon is really bright, most of the time. Many people apply night time photography principles over shooting the moon. Does this work? Well, yes and no. I’d opt for no, personally. If you photograph the moon the same way you would using a dark night and very long exposures, you may encounter a great ball of white against a black night sky. Just as my photo is above. But I meant to do this, it was my aim to get the moon as a white ball.  If you like to shoot the craters,you have to apply some really different things.

The moon is very dazzling, in particular when it’s full. And you don’t want to miss a full moon. When I take pictures of the moon I position my settings at anything from 180th of a second to 30 seconds.  For detailed shots where you want to craters are shown, then you need to zoom in, shoot with a small aperture, a faster, daylight shutter speed and a medium to low ISO. If you are not sure which shutter speed is the best then attempt three or four photos on a selection of shutter speeds to get the best one.

Setting up. You will need a support when you take pictures of the moon. This is since the moon is so distant, any knock or bump of the digital camera and you may find you risk missing the superb craters. Position your camera on a tripod, and if you have one, use a shutter cable to be in command of the shutter speed. We use these shooting modes since we do not want to accidentally move the camera by pressing the shutter button down. And that’s right, even movement as light as a finger can put your entire photo out of focus.

It’s imperative to keep the camera still so you get everything in focus. I use manual focus so I can capture the craters as razor-sharp as I can. I occasionally find that auto focus can either have challenges getting the precise focus or sometimes can’t focus whatsoever. Try adjusting the focus ring until you come across a position whereby the moons craters look razor-sharp.

Lighting sensitivity. ISO is a characteristic of your camera that controls how responsive the camera is to light. If you are photographing the moon as the key subject matter against a black night sky, then you will not want a very high ISO. If you are photographing the moon as an addition to your shot, then this becomes a different matter altogether.The closer you get to the moon, the less ISO you need.

What about the cameras aperture? Since the moon is in the far distance I suggest making use of a little fstop. In other words employ a big f-stop number. I usually choose F22 for the sharpest I shots I can get. It’s better to get as much sharpness into the depth of your scene as you possibly can.

Shoot at the very highest quality you can. I always pick RAW for all my photos and shooting the moon is no exclusion. If you want high quality images then opt for the highest quality setting you can go. Even if you can’t photograph in RAW, select the largest Jpeg possible.

Once you have taken your moon photograph, you may have to sharpen it a little. Not because your image will come out fuzzy, but remember, it is over three hundred thousand kilometres away. A little increase in the sharpening will help enhance some of detail in the craters. Try improving the contrast a little too. That always helps to give the surface more depth and detail, instead than having a big flat white surface.

Photograph the moon well by making use of these simple guidelines to help. In the mean time don’t stop gazing at the beautiful night sky. You may be astounded at what you see; falling stars, a shift in position of the moon and constellations and even a satellite or two. They make sharp time lapse images. Never forget the total beauty and brilliance of the night sky. It gives us a chance, as photographers to take pictures of the distant past and be amazed at the place we reside in.

How To Use A Digital Camera – Wrapping Your Head Around The Basics

There are many great advantages of learning how to use a digital camera, even a point and shoot, or compact digital camera. Simply because you don’t have an slr doesn’t mean you won’t be able enough to take beautiful pictures. The elegance about compact digital cameras is that you can take them any where, fit them in your bag and if you see something worth photographing, you can straightforwardly point and shoot. When you realize a few handy techniques, you can subsequently start getting beautiful photos.

In order to photograph beautiful photos you need to take a few methods into consideration before pressing the shutter. As much as the camera has some  marvelous technology, it can only prove as a rough road map for you, instead of taking the photo for you. It’s you who takes a superb shot due to creative  and technological skills, not the camera.

On the days when you have a few moments to examine what result you are going will get you will be grateful that you didn’t rush and really looked closely at what you are shooting. It is constantly through this assessment and understanding that takes you to the next degree in your photography.

To begin, let’s look at the essential mechanical foundations of your camera. Shutter speed and aperture. Every photo consists of a mixture of shutter speed and f stop. To appreciate this fully think of your shutter speed as the measurement of time the light has to enter the sensor and then be shut out again. The fstop is the quantity of light that the shutter lets inside. Shutter is about shooting at the right moment and aperture is about the amount of light.

When you have a lens aperture that is quite large, you will find you have a quicker shutter speed time. This is so that not too much light floods the sensor and provides you with overly bright photos. (Photos with too much light can ruin your image). Fstop and shutter speed continually work at the same time. Once you feel more confident in your camera and your skills and competencies, you will be able to work out the ideal combination of both.  Once you get the perfect combination you will be able to progress your photography ten fold.

What about the modes on the compact ? There are a a small number of work modes you can use on your digital camera. Most of the time you will most likely shoot in automatic. I suggest to aim to use out the other controls if you can.

“SP” is shutter priority mode. It means that the camera will decide on what it thinks the best shutter speed is for your photo. “AP” means aperture priority. The camera will pick the aperture for you as you decide the shutter speed. You may also find a range of other scene shooting modes such as Portrait, Landscape, Night and Sport.  When you position your camera dial on any of these modes it will mean that the compact  will try to hit upon the best combination of shutter and aperture for these conditions you have chosen.

These diverse settings bring about distinct things to take place within the camera itself. Portrait mode sets the camera to have a blurry background. Landscape sets the digital camera to be able to get sharp focus in the distance. Night Time function sets the camera to have a very long-drawn-out shutter speed and Sports function tells the digital camera to have a very fast shutter speed. Within all of these shooting modes you are unable to manipulate the light sensitivity (called ISO), and at times won’t be able to use the flash. (Based on what digital camera you have.)

Working to get the best image sharpness you can is the ideal way to take pictures.  It’s important to be on familiar terms with what type of subjects needs what kind of focusing. For example, a close up picture of someone’s face needs sharp, close focusing. A mountain range will require sharp focusing all the way in the distance. (This span of focusing is called depth of field.)

To make sure that your shots are in focus at the point you want them to be, you will see a small circle come up in your view finder or the screen. When the picture is in focus the little circle will present. Some digital cameras don’t have a green small dot but may beep quietly when the shot is in focus and it’s time to take the shot.

It’s important not to be careless with the focus. Sometimes it’s hard to keep everything in your head at once which is why digital camera making companies created a useful little mode called “Auto Focus Lock”. This mode allows you hold the focus on your subject while you get the best position, then you can photograph and still keep clear focus.

Otherwise you can point the camera, keep the button down half way (don’t compress it yet) wait for the camera to beep, then take the image. By doing this you will also be holding the focus. This has great advantages because you don’t have to recall to take the auto focus lock off. You can just move on to the next image.

Always keep in mind to observe your light, before taking the shot. Choose which mode you love photographing in and take the photo accordingly. Happy shooting!


Come and see the results of this months photography competition

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Hi guys! Each month we run a photography competition for our photography emagazine subscribers. We get so many entries and such fantastic responses. The winner has been announced and I thought you might like to see the winning photo. It’s magnificent. Continue reading


Wildlife Photography Tips- The Three Secrets To Stunning Wildlife Photography.

This gallery contains 4 photos.

There are many wildlife photography tips I can share with you, but here are the most vital. It really does depend heavily on, not only light, but your timing and comprehension of the creature you are photographing and a whole … Continue reading


Slr photography Basics

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In this article I’m going to share with you the 10 most valuable tips on the slr photography basics that you need to know to get started in taking stunning photos.

Learning slr photography basics doesn’t take very long. In fact it can take you a short afternoon. However, putting that knowledge into practice to get the great photos you want takes time and experience. How long this takes depends on you and the time you have to invest in your photography. Continue reading


What Do I Think Of “Trick Photography and Special Effects” by Evan Sharboneau?

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I have not come across a trick photography and special effects book I have loved more. I don’t normally do reviews, but felt that this was worth doing.I emailed Evan to say hi. He knew of me and very generously … Continue reading